mandag 29. april 2024

2023 Primeur, Pessac-Léognan

2023 Pessac-Léognan








 

There are some absolute gems in this vintage. The expression of Les carmes haut-Brion is one of my favourites not only in the appelation, but of all the 2023´s tasted. It shows thorougbreed qualities even as a barrel sample and unusual balance and harmony already. This is surely a wine to look out for. 

 

Domaine de Chevalier is continuing their last years of excellence, bit lighter and shorter this year, which is the style of the vintage, not quite as complex, but still an absolutely superb red, and way above where they were ten years ago, even if they have been lovely for decades. The whites took time to open in the glass, but a great Domaine and probably the best L’Esprit ever. Same for Domaine de la Solitude. 

 

Smith Haut Lafite continues with superb wines as well, and I do love the somewhat brighter and more finetuned style of the recent vintages, allready at youth. They are showing more finesse. I also tasted the 2014 white that as ten years old shows more youthful characteristics than I thought it would go, and the 2010 red has also developed into a very refined wine. It was a bit broad shouldered for my personal taste earlier on. And now it has aged very gracefully. So I really look forward to seeing the evolution further. 

 

A wonderful red Cohins-Lurton, I think the best I have tried from here. Unfortunately the white never passed my path. 

 

Haut-Bailly is just pure pleassure as always, but I do have a slight worry about the alcohol levels. Sometimes they settle very nicely with age, sometimes they don´t. And that storry also goes for the Clarence Dillon estates of Haut-Brion and La Misson Haut-Brion. They are a bit bold lately, but they do pack complexity and finesse as well. And that aftertaste of the 2023 Haut-Brion is something you can write poems about. 

 

I do like that Pape-Clement has stepped down on the throttle a bit the last few vintages. They are more refined and elegant than before in my book. 

 

In general I am surprised by the freshness of the whites, but there are a few weaker ones, some that may have been harvested too early to preserve the acidity, and is therefore a bit lean, and some that was maybe harvested to late, and have concentration but feels a bit flat. And the same goes for a few reds as well. 

 

 

2023 Château Bouscaut

Pale lemon yellow. Fruit forward, apples, some citrus, nuanced, leaner nose. Fresh acidity, apples, rounded, creamy, good length. 89

 

2023 Château Brown

Ruby. Anise, spices, liquorice, fruit driven if leaner. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner bodied, herbs. 87-89

 

2023 Château Cantelys

Ruby. Herbs, dark fruits, anise, some spices nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, herbs, anise, liquorice, leaner. 86-88

 

2023 Château Carbonnieux

Ruby. Blackberries, anise, some spices, dark fruits nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries, spices, juicy, fruit forward, long. 90-92

 

2023 Château Carbonnieux blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, some citrus, fruit forward nose, minerals. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, fruit forward, nuanced, detailed, elegant, somewhat creamy, long finish. 91

 

2023 Château Couhins

Ruby. Dark fruits, anise, spices, liquorice, fruit forward nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries, dark fruits, long. 90-92

 

2023 Château Couhins blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, some citrus, fruit forward nose. Fresh acidity, peach, apples, lemons, citrus, elegant texture, long. 93

 

2023 Château Couhins-Lurton

Ruby. Cassis, blackberries, some herbs, dark fruits nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, energetic, saline, detailed, nuanced, a wonderful Couhins-Lurton. 93-95

 

2023 Château de Cruzeau

Ruby. Blackberries, anise, spices, dark fruits nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries, anise, spices, some herbs, leaner finish. 88-90

 

2023 Château de Fieuzal

Ruby. Dark fruits, anise, liquorice, blackberries nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries, anise, leaner finish. 89-91

 

2023 Château de Fieuzal blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, citrus, minerals, fruit driven, nuanced nose. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, refreshing, detailed, nuanced, elegant, long. 92

 

2023 Château de France

Ruby. Cassis, anise, blackberries, fruit forward nose, detailed. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, juicy, spices, elegant texture, quite lively, a lovely Château de France. 90-92

 

2023 Château de France blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, some citrus, fruit forward, nuanced nose. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, some citrus, elegant texture, long finish. 90

 

2023 Château de Rochemorin

Ruby. Blackberries, dark fruits, liquorice, some spices nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries, dark fruits, liquorice, good length. 88-90

 

2023 Château Haut-Bailly

Ruby. Blackberries, dark fruits, some spices, liquorice, detailed, nuanced, scented and lifted, layered nose.Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries, dark fruits, detailed, nuanced, layered, fruit forward, long finish. Beautiful. 95-97

 

2023 Haut-Baiily II

Ruby. Blackberries, anise, dark fruits, liquorice, fruit forward nose, scented and lifted. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, blackberries, spices, fruit driven, nuanced, elegant and long. 91-93

 

2023 Château Haut-Bergey

Ruby. Cassis, blackberries, anise, spices and herbs nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, spices, liquorice, nuanced, leaner. Good length. 88-90

 

2023 Château Haut-Brion

Ruby. Blackberries, blueberries, scented, fruit driven, fruit forward, nuanced, detailed and deep nose, yet lifted. Floral high notes. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, detailed, nuanced, juicy, some spices, liquorice, bright and elegant, lovely balance, incredible freshness and liveliness, saline notes. When you think the aftertaste ends, it comes back and you get another impressive round of flavours. 99-100

 

2023 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion

Ruby. Blackberries, anise, spices, dark fruits, blueberries, scented if a bit tighter nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, spices, liquorice, blackberries, nuanced, long finish. Lovely energy to it. 92-94

 

2023 Château Haut-Brion blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, some peach, minerals, fruit driven, nuanced, detailed, fruit forward nose. Fresh acidity, apples, citrus, pears, somewhat creamy, detailed, layered, nuanced, elegant texture, long finish. Beautiful. 96

 

2023 La Clarte de Haut-Brion

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, peach, fruit forward, nuanced, scented nose, elegant. Fresh acidity, peach, apples, minerals, elegant texture, nuanced, detailed, fruit forward, long finish. 92

 

2023 Château Haut-Lagrange

Ruby. Herbs, nettles, leaner nose. Leaner, flat, herbal, avoid. 81-83

 

2023 Château Haut-Bacalan

Ruby. Vanilla, spices, blackberries, nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, vanilla, blackberries, anise, spices, leaner finish. 87-89

 

2023 Château La Louvière

Ruby. Cassis, dark fruits, blackberries nose, spices. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries, anise, dark fruits, liquorice, long. Energetic. 92-94

 

2023 Château La Louviere blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, some citrus, fruit forward nose, Fresh acidity, apples, rounded, elegant, refreshing, nuanced, juicy, long finish. Saline. A lovely la Louviere. 93

 

2023 Château La Mission Haut-Brion

Ruby. Blackberries, anise, spices, nuanced, scented and lifted nose, detailed and bright, very elegant. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries, anise, dark fruits, liquorice and spices, blueberries, detailed, nuanced and long. Sort of a soft giant, it feels lighter than it really is. 97-99

 

2023 La Chapelle de la Mission Haut.Brion

Ruby. Blackberries, anise, dark fruits, some spices, fruit forward nose, elegant. Scented and lifted. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries, dark fruits, spices, liquorice, elegant texture, long. 92-94

 

2023 Château La Mission Haut-Brion blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, citrus, fruit forward, nuanced, elegant, detailed nose. Fresh acidity, apples, citrus, some vanilla and spices, elegant concentration, long finish. 95

 

2023 Château Larrivet Haut-Brion

Ruby. Cassis, blackberries, some herbs, vanilla and spices nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, red fruits, anise, spices, liquorice, leaner finish, long. 90-92

 

2023 Château Larrivet Haut-Brion blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, some citrus, fruit forward, vanilla and spices nose. Fresh acidity, apples, some citrus, elegant texture, nuanced, rounded, good length. 89

 

2023 Château Latour-Martillac 

Ruby. Blackberries, anise, fruit driven nose, nuanced, spices. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, spices, liquorice, fruit driven, textured, long finish. 91-93

 

2023 Château Latour-Martillac blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Citrus, apples, some lemons, nuanced nose. Spices. Fresh acidity, apples, creamy, rounded, elegant, nuanced and detailed, long finish. 93

 

2023 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion

Ruby. Scented, bright, nuanced, pure, stunning nose, detailed and refined, complex, exotic, layered and complex. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, liquorice, blackberries, fruit driven, energetic, textured, layered, superb and long. Saline finish. One of my absolute favorite expressions of this vintage. 97-99

 

2023 C des Carmes Haut-Brion

Ruby. Blackberries, dark fruits, anise, some spices, fruit forward, intense and deep, layered.Scented and lifted. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, detailed, nuanced, blackberries, juicy, detailed, minerals, saline, elegant, long finish. Lovely. I find this the best C to date. 94-96

 

2023 Château Lespault-Martillac

Ruby. Dark fruits, blackberries, anise, spices, liquorice, blueberries nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, blackberries, juicy, some salinity, long finish. 90-92

 

2023 Château Lespault-Martillac blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, pears, fruit forward nose, elegant. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, minerals, nuanced, fruit driven, lemons, very saline, nuanced, long. 91-93

 

2023 Château Malartic-Lagraviere

Ruby. Blackberries, anise, spices, fruit forward, liquorice, nuanced nose, deeper. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, liquorice, some spices, nuanced, long. 91-93

 

2023 Château Malartic-Lagraviere blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, some citrus, fruit forward nose, nuanced. Fresh acidity, apples, rounded, elegant texture, nuanced, long finish. 91

 

2023 Château Olivier

Ruby. Scented, blackberries, dark fruits, some liquorice, fruit driven nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, juicy, dark fruits, anise, spices, liquorice, long finish. A fine Olivier. 92-94

 

2023 Château Olivier blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, fruit forward, citrus and spices nose. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, some citrus, oranges, elegant texture, long fin ish. 90

 

2023 Château Pape Clement

Ruby. Blackberries, anise, some spices, fruit forward nose. Scented, richer and deeper. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, spices, liquorice, detailed, fruit forward, long finish. Very elegant texture, very smooth. 94-96

 

2023 Château Pape Clement blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, some citrus, fruit forward nose, nuanced, bit tight nose Fresh acidity, apples, rounded, creamy, detailed, peach, candied lemons, long finish. 94

 

2023 Château Picque Caillou

Ruby. Blackberries, herbs, anise, spices, fruit forward nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, spices, liquorice, fruit driven if leaner and herbal. 87-89

 

2023 Château Picque Caillou blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, some lemons, spices, fruit forward nose. Fresh acidity, apples, rounded, elegant texture, good length. 89

 

2023 Château Séguin

Ruby. Blackberries, anise, dark fruits, liquorice nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries, anise, dark fruits, leaner finish. 88-90

 

2023 Château Smith Haut Lafitte

Ruby. Blueberries, dark fruits, nuanced, fruit forward, detailed, firmer, quite intense nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, blackberries, blueberries, has a bit more tension and firmness than usual, because of a higher proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon. Saline finish. 96-98

 

2023 Le Petit Smith Haut Laffite 

Ruby. Cassis, blackberries, dark fruits, fruit forward, liquorice, some exotic spices. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries, dark fruits, anise, liquorice, spices, blackberries, long. 92-94

 

2023 Les Hauts de Smith

Ruby. Blackberries, dark fruits, liquorice, fruit forward nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries, anise, dark fruits, liquorice, leaner finish. 89-91

 

2023 Château Smith Haut Lafitte blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Peach, apples, citrus, lemons, nuanced, fruit driven, some floral notes. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, detailed, nuanced, elegant, bright and detailed, juicy, refreshing, lovely tension, long finish. Saline and vibrant citrus finish. 94-96

 

2023 Le Petit Smith Haut Laffite blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, some citrus, minerals, nuanced, detailed nose. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, minerals, elegant texture, detailed, energetic, lovely tension. Saline. Harmonious. Beautiful expression. 92-94

 

2023 Les Hauts de Smith blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Peach, apples, lemons, some citrus, detailed nose, nuanced. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, peach, saline, elegant minerality, long. 89-91

 

2023 Château Le Thil

Ruby. Blackberries, dark fruits, some spices, some vanilla, some exotic spices nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries, dark fruits, liquorice, spices, long finish. 89-91

 

2023 Clos Marsalette

Ruby. Blackberries, anise, dark fruits, liquorice notes nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries, red fruits, some spices, liquorice, long if leaner. 90-92

 

2023 Clos Marsalette blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Peach, apples, some citrus, vanilla, fruit driven nose. Fresh acidity, apples, peach, minerals, nuanced, elegant texture, good length. 88-90

 

2023 Domaine de Chevalier

Ruby. Scented, blackberries, cassis, blueberries, pure, detailed, spices and vanilla nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries, anise, spices, liquorice, fruit forward, nuanced, long finish. Minerals, nuanced, expressive. 95-97

 

2023 L'Esprit de Chevalier

Ruby. Blackberries, anise, cassis, dark fruits, liquorice, nuanced, detailed nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries, dark fruits, minerals, nuanced and long. 91-93

 

2023 Domaine de Chevalier blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, minerals, nuanced, fruit driven, citrus, lifted and saline nose. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, minerals, detailed, energetic, nuanced, bright, lovely balance, long. Such tension and finesse. So smooth. 97-99

 

2023 L'Esprit de Chevalier blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Pears, apples, nuanced, detailed, bright, fruit forward, nuanced. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, detailed, nuanced, elegant texture, lovely balance, long. 92-94

 

2023 Domaine de la Solitude

Ruby. Blackberries, anise, dark fruits, blueberries, fruit driven nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries, anise, dark fruits, liquorice, anise, leaner finish. 89-91

 

2023 Domaine de la Solitude blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, fruit driven, nuanced, elegant, fruit forward, lovely nose. Fresh acidity, lemons, minerals, detailed, nuanced, bright, delicate, lovely, saline. Probably the best white Domaine de la Solitude to date. 91-93

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