fredag 16. april 2021

2017 Fronsac, Lalande de Pomerol and more


Most of the wines tasted here are from the Grand Cercle organization that has many of the best finds for savvy buyers. Fronsac shows better and better, and some of the top names of the appelation sent samples and nice to retaste them  again in bottle. 


Bordeaux


2017 Domaine de Cambes

Ruby. Blueberries, anise, spices, liquorice nose, light of vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruity, blackberries and blueberries, fruit driven and juicy, long finish. You may find me crazy but tasting it side by side with the 2018, this is better balanced. 91



Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux


2017 L’Aurage

Ruby. Dark fruits, blackberries, coffee, spices, rich and deep nose, vanilla and toast. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, vanilla, liquorice, sweet fruits, vanilla, spices, smooth, rich and long. 90


2017 Clos Puy Arnaud

Ruby. Dark fruits, anise, spices, liquorice nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, dark fruits, blueberries, good length. 88



Côtes de Bourg


2017 Roc de Cambes

Ruby. Blackberries, blueberries, dark fruits and spices, some liquorice and vanilla nose, fairly intense. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, blackberries, chocolate and coffee beans, truffles, rich and intense, high alcohol, long finish. 92



Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux


2017 Château Reaut

Ruby. Cassis, blueberries, lighter nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, red fruits, leaner finish. 85


2017 Carat de Château Reaut

Ruby. Red fruits, blackberries nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruit, leaner, red fruits. 85



Lussac Saint-Emilion


2017 Château La Rose Perrière 

Ruby. Blackberries, anise, spices, vanilla nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, spices, good length. 87



Lalande de Pomerol


2017 Château de Chambrun

Ruby. Blackberries, anise, fruit driven nose, some herbs. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, red and dark fruits, anise, some spices, good length. 88


2017 Château Moncets

Ruby. Blackberries, anise, alcohol nose. Medium acidity, ripe tannins, jammy, somewhat flat. 86


2017 Château Grand Ormeau

Ruby. Dark fruits, anise, blackberries and spices nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, some spices, good length. 87



Fronsac


2017 Château Villars

Ruby. Dark fruits, anise, vanilla and spices, blackberries nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, spices, blackberries, good length. 88


2017 Château Moulin Haut-Laroque

Ruby. Blueberries, anise, fruit driven nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, minerals, blackberries, blueberries, good length. 88


2017 Château de la Huste

Ruby. Blueberries, anise, vanilla and spices nose, fruit driven nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, red fruits, anise, some spices, good length. 88


2017 Château Dalem

Ruby. Cassis, blueberries, anise, dark fruity nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, juicy, detailed, nuanced, intense and rich, layered, long. 92


2017 Château Fontenil

Ruby. Anise, blackberries, vanilla, some spices, intense nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, juicy, blueberries, plums, detailed, long finish. 90


2017 Château La Dauphine 

Ruby. Blueberries, anise, fruit driven, faint minerals, some vanilla nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries, cassis, structured, dark fruits and subdued minerals, long finish. 91

torsdag 15. april 2021

2017 Pessac- Léognan

 








Pessac-Léognan shows a lot of elegance in 2017, some wines may lack a bit of fruit, but those that has what it takes to balance the wines structure are absolutely lovely. Domaine de Chevalier dazzles me in its balance while Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion shows more power than anything else in this vintage from here. I did not taste Pape Clement and Smith Haut Lafite, two other rather full bodied estates but Latour Martillac was also on this more restrained style as well I felt. 


Haut-Bailly shows such grace and finesse. I scored it even higher during primeur, and did not quite find that again now, but still hugely enjoyable. And I really hope to taste it again in a not too far distant future. I recieved samples from several estates that I have hardly ever tasted from before, that was exciting. Love discovering new wines. It is a more classical vintage in Pessac-Léognan and most wines will be lovely medium term wines, even if the best ones will last for a few decades. 


It will be great fun to follow the fairly low (13) alcohol Domaine de Chevalier and Haut-Bailly over thenext few decades and see how they develop next to their much richer and bigger 2018 siblings. 2017 lacks some of the 2016 thrills, but many are very fine tuned and enjoyable. And you need something while you wait for the 2015’s, 2016’s and 2018’s. 


2017 Château Bardins

Ruby. Cassis, vanilla, lighter nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, some cassis, vanilla, some structure to it, good length. 88


2017 Château Bouscaut

Ruby. Blackberries, liquorice, vanilla, intense nose, rich for the vintage. Spicy, almost a faint smoky note. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, liquorice, juicy, spicey, on the ripe side, sweet tobacco, long finish. 92


2017 Château Bouscaut blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Peach, apples, some grapefruits and lemons, spicy nose, minerals. Fresh acidity, grapefruits, lemons and peach, nuanced, long finish. 91


2017 Château Cantelys

Ruby. Cassis, blueberries, lighter nose, anise, some vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries and anise, blueberries and spices, juicy, bit short. 89


2017 Château Cantelys blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Almonds, apples and pears nose, some smoky spices. Fresh acidity, peach, apples, light bodied, elegant, touch bitter finish. 88


2017 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion

Ruby. Blueberries, scented, blackberries, vanilla, detailed and nuanced nose, layered, needs a few hours to open. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blueberries, blackberries, fruit driven, nuanced, layered, long finish. 95


2017 Domaine de Chevalier 

Ruby. Cassis, dark fruits, blueberries, vanilla, nuanced and detailed nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, cassis, dark fruits, lovely harmony and balance, spices and light liquorice, rounded and well behaved, beauty’s and even if not a low score, more pleasurable than points might suggest. Refined. 94


2017 Domaine de Chevalier blanc 

Pale lemon yellow. Citrus, grapefruits, lemons, lemon peel, minerals, flinty nose with some vanilla. Fresh acidity, bright and detailed, nuanced, crisp yet such balance, a great white Domaine de Chevalier, but give it air! 96


2017 L’Esprit de Chevalier

Ruby. Scented, lighter nose, ted fruits, cassis, light anise nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant texture and body, lighter but lovely balance. 89


2017 L’Esprit de Chevalier blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Grapefruits, lemons, minerals, almost floral, tighter but brighter also next to the 2018. Fresh acidity, lively and more vigorous, detailed, bright expression, a beauty! 92


2017 Château Couhins

Ruby. Scented with air, blueberries, cassis, detailed nose, nuanced. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries and anise, fruit driven and detailed, fairly intense, bit lighter finish, long. 91


2017 Château d’Alix

Ruby. Blueberries, vanilla, some blackberries nose, gentle. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lighter bodied, elegant texture, fairly nuanced, good length. 88


2017 Château d’Eyran

Ruby. Blackberries, blueberries and vanilla nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blackberries, cassis and spices, elegant texture, good length. 


2017 Château de France

Ruby. Some cassis, blueberries, light vanilla, faint herbs nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, leaner bodied, good length. 87


2017 Château La Garde

Ruby. Cassis, anise, vanilla, lighter nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lean palate, anise, dried fruits, short. 86


2017 Château Haut-Bailly

Ruby. Blackberries, cassis, anise, scented, floral, some minerals, faint tobacco and cigars with hours of air. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, some spices, nuanced, detailed, bright, not the most intense, but classic, long. Like listening to An der schönen blauen Donau by Strauss. It just flows so easily. 95


2017  Château Haut-Brion

Ruby. Blackberries, blueberries, spices, fruit driven, intense, floral, scented, layered nose, minerals evident in Le Clarence is much more difficult to grasp here, but seems to be down there. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, blackberries and spices, intense and layered, smooth, verging on some alcohol warmth, long finish. 97


2017 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion

Ruby. Anise, cassis, blueberries, some spices, vanilla, almost a mineral undertone and faint floral high notes nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant fruit, body and texture, rounded, some vanilla, long finish. 92


2017 Château Haut-Lagrange

Ruby. Anise, herbs, cassis and blueberries nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, red fruits, some herbs, leaner finish. Good length. 87


2017 Château Lafargue

Ruby. Blackberries, anise, spices, fruit driven if leaner nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, cassis, blueberries, anise, leaner and firmer, good length. 87


2017 Château Lafargue blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Light tropical and pears nose. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, leaner, good length. 87


2017 Château Lamothe-Bouscaut

Ruby. Cassis, blueberries, some anise, lighter nose, some vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries and spices, leaner finish. 87


2017 Château Lamothe-Bouscaut blanc 

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, grapefruits and vanilla nose. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, gooseberries, leaner finish. 86


2017 Château Larrivet Haut-Brion

Ruby. Cassis, vanilla, spices, blueberries nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, some structure to it, vanilla, spices, firmer than I remember if from primeur, needs air. 91


2017 Château Larrivet Haut-Brion blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, grapefruits, peach and pears nose. Fresh acidity, rounded, fruit driven, ripe, bit high alcohol, good length. 88


2017 Château Latour-Martillac

Ruby. Blackberries and cassis, blueberries, detailed, nuanced nose, scented, some vanilla and faint chocolate note. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries and blueberries, fruit driven, intense, long. 94


2017 Château Latour-Martillac blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Pears, peach, grapefruits, grilled lemons and some vanilla and smoke nose. Fresh acidity, fruit driven, leach, pears, some citrus,  detailed, long finish, almost creamy. 93


2017 Château Léognan

Ruby. Blackberries, anise, some herbs, paprika, some vanilla notes nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, cassis, dark fruits, some herbs and vanilla, quite bright expression, classical. 88


2017 Château Lespault-Martillac

Ruby. Cassis and blueberries nose, some spices. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, spices, blackberries and spices, juicy texture, good length. 89


2017 Château Lespault-Martillac blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Pears, peach, fruit driven nose, some vanilla. Fresh acidity, fruit driven, pears and peach, touch bitter finish, good length. 89


2017 Château La Louvière

Ruby. Cassis, blackberries and blueberries, fruit driven, spices, anise nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, cassis, blueberries, vanilla, long finish. 90


2017 Château La Louvière blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Vanilla, some light smoky notes, grilled lemons and grapefruits nose. Fresh acidity, peach, grapefruits, vanilla, nuanced, long finish, bit narrower. 91


2017 Château Luchey-Halde

Ruby. Cassis, anise, some vanilla, blueberries nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, ted fruits and blueberries, light bodied, good length. 87


2017 Château Luchey-Halde blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, some citrus, light peach and vanilla nose. Fresh acidity, lemons, some light vanilla, apples, peach, refreshing. 88


2017 Château Malartic Lagravière

Ruby. Cassis, blackberries and blueberries, some vanilla, spices, nuanced, detailed nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries and spices, nuanced, quite intense, linear finish. Long. 93


2017 Clos Marsalette

Ruby. Cassis, blackberries and anise, some vanilla and spices. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, blackberries and spices, long finish. Remember this as thinner during primeur. 90


2017 Clos Marsalette blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Peach, apples, pears, fruit driven nose, light vanilla note. Fresh acidity, apples, peach, light bodied, some sweetness to the fruit, good length. 89


2017 Château La Mission Haut-Brion

Ruby. Dense, upon opening, nothing happens, you need to rely on experience, because this, like Haut-Bailly just isn’t playing along right now. But! With air, things happen! Blackberries, anise, spices, blueberries, scented, intense, nuanced and layered nose. And with air, it took about six hours for this one to really shine. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, lush, spices, detailed, layered, intense, nuanced, you hardly notice the fairly high alcohol levels with enough air, really long finish. 96


2017 La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion

Ruby. Blackberries, anise, blueberries, elegant vanilla and spices nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, juicy, dark fruits, elegant texture, fairly detailed. Long finish. 91


2017 Château Olivier

Ruby. Blackberries and blueberries, cassis, fruit driven and somewhat scented nose, elegant. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries and blueberries, detailed, nuanced, lovely balance, long! 93


2017 Château Olivier blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Citrus, pears, grapefruits and light vanilla note nose. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, grapefruits, light minerals note, elegant and refreshing. Long. 92


2017 Château Pontac Monplaisir

Ruby. Dark fruits, anise, some spices nose, some roses and violets nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner bodied, anise, some spices, dark fruits, bit of alcohol warmth in the finish. 87


2017 Château Pontac Monplaisir blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Peach, almonds, apples, light vanilla note nose, floral. Fresh acidity, apples, rounded, some vanilla, almonds and marzipan, good length. 88


2017 Château Roche-Lalande

Ruby. Cassis, anise, some faint tobacco notes, vanilla and spices nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, red fruits, anise, lighter bodied, anise, good length. 87


2017 Château Roche-Lalande blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Grapefruits, cats pee, some nettles, light nose. Fresh acidity, apples, gooseberries, lighter bodied, bit short. 86


2017 Château de Rouillac

Ruby. Blueberries and blackberries nose, some vanilla and spices, faintly scented. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, again blueberries and blackberries, quite a juicy and refreshing palate, some exotic spices, good length. A lovely Rouillac! 89


2017 Château de Rouillac blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Some smoky notes, peach and grapefruits nose. Fresh acidity, smoky, peach and grapefruits, good length. 88


2017 Domaine de la Solitude 

Ruby. Cassis and blueberries with liquorice and vanilla nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, red and dark fruits, some spices, good length. 88


2017 Domaine de la Solitude blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, citrus nose. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, light spiciness, elegant, refrshing, good length 89


2017 Château Le Thil Comte Clary

Ruby. Rich nose, blackberries and fruit driven, some spices, high alcohol nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise and liquorice, fruit driven, high alcohol, long finish. 90






onsdag 14. april 2021

2017 Sauternes retasted







 2017 Sauternes


Sauternes and Barsac retasted in bottle, and the wines have, unusually, lighter bodied in bottle from what I remember from primeur. Most Sauternes houses aim at 14% alcohol to get that fullbodied rich mouthfeel that Sauternes is famed for, but I think all wines tasted below has 13,5 alcohol on the label. That gives an unusually bright expression, almost lifted and some feel ethereal but some may argue that they rather have the style with more weight. 2017 is a vintage where even the Sauternes feel like Barsac’s. 


Barsac always have that brighter and somewhat crisper nuance to them, and this year, all the tasted wines had that feel. Unfortunately some were missing, so I did not get to retaste the “entire picture”, but most of the important ones are here. I think it will be a vintage that will be lovely all the way, and it will be fascinating to hopefully follow this vintage over the next decades and see how they age. They are a bit unusual in their style, yet have the freshness to liven things up. Way back when, Sauternes was a sort of aperitif, and a vintage like this is at least more or less perfection on a hot summer afternoon in the shade somewhere in the garden. 


I taste and drink far more Sauternes than most, and love that I got to taste a few estates that I very rarely do taste. D’Arche, Lamothe Guignard and Suau are very rare birds around here, but even Nairac that I do taste occasionally when I can find a bottle showed up. Most of the others I enjoy frequently. Sauternes, the most underrated wines on this planet. Not by wine critics, but by you, consumers! If you enjoy life, you can’t resist Sauternes. Of that I’m sure! 


2017 Château d’Arche

Pale golden. Fruit driven, apricots, peach and faintly spicy nose. Fresh acidity, peach, vanilla, spices, lighter bodied, caster sugar, leaner, good length. 89


2017 Château Broustet

Pale golden. Light nose of peach, apricots and and light vanilla nose. Fresh acidity, peach, apricots, pineapples, lighter bodied, touch bitter in the finish, good length. 88


2017 Château Clos Haut Peyraguey

Pale golden. Light nose of peach, fruit driven, some light spicy notes, pineapples nose. Fresh acidity, peach, pineapples, elegant texture, bit lean finish. 91


2017 Château Coutet

Pale golden. Peach, apples, elegant nose, some vanilla, lighter nose for Coutet. Fresh acidity, peach, some vanilla, apricots, elegant and refreshing, i like the brightness of it this vintage, very pure feel if a bit less intense. 93


2017 Château Doisy Daëne 

Pale golden. Bright nose, nuanced and detailed, elegant pure fruit, tropical, peach and pineapples, very bright expression. Fresh acidity, peach and pineapples, bright, pure, a lightweight with superb balance, long finish. 94


2017 Château Filhot

Pale golden. Apricots, light vanilla, fruit driven nose if leaner, apples. Fresh acidity, apples, peach, lemons, elegant and fruit driven, lighter bodied, lovely texture, bit short. 89


2017 Château Guiraud

Golden. Apricots, peach, fruit driven, vanilla, pineapples, nuanced nose. Fresh acidity, fruit driven, peach, apricots, detailed, elegant texture, long finish. Elegant style for Guiraud, lighter and brighter. 93


2017 Château Lamothe Guignard

Pale golden. Apricots, fruit driven, peach, vanilla, fruit driven nose. Fresh acidity, fruit driven, apricots, peach, vanilla, light bodied but elegant, a lovely Lamothe Guignard, even if still a lighter Sauternes. 89


2017 Château de Myrat

Pale golden. Peach, fruit driven, apricots, faint floral and vanilla nose. Fresh acidity, apples, fruit driven, peach and pineapples, faintly spicy, long finish if narrower. 91


2017 Château Nairac

Pale golden. Peach, apricots, pineapples, some spices nose, nuanced, some vanilla. Fresh acidity, fruit driven, peach, apricots, fruit driven, long finish. 92


2017 Château de Rayne Vigneau

Golden. Vanilla, apples, peach, grilled pineapples, faint cinnamon touch nose. Fresh acidity, creamy, pineapples, smooth and rounded, elegant texture, lovely balance, subtle, long finish. 93


2017 Château Sigalas Rabaud

Pale golden. Apricots, peach, apricots, tight nose, some vanilla and spices. Fresh acidity, peach, apples, elegant texture, a gracious Sauternes, a ballet danced tiptoeing over the tongue, long finish, and everything is transparent and tender. A beauty! 94


2017 Château Suau

Golden. Apricots, fruit driven, peach nose, lighter. Fresh acidity, light bodied, rounded, elegant texture, good length. 88


2017 Château Suduiraut

Golden. Apricots, pineapples, vanilla, fairly intense, nuanced, bright and detailed nose. Fresh acidity, peach, pineapples, intense, bright, elegant texture, detailed, bright, long finish. 95


2017 Castelneau de Suduiraut 

Golden. Peach, fruit driven, apples, pineapples, vanilla, nuanced, detailed, elegant nose. Fresh acidity, peach, spices, nuanced, bright, pure feel, long. 91


2017 Lions de Suduiraut 

Golden. Peach, apricots, pineapples, peach, some vanilla and spices nose, fruit driven. Fresh acidity, fruit driven, peach, pears, pineapples, elegant texture, long. 90


2017 Château La Tour Blanche

Golden. Apricots, vanilla, peach, pineapples, some spices, a lighter nose for La Tour Blanche. Fresh acidity, peach, pineapples, fruit driven, lighter bodied, nuanced, long. 94