2020-2022 tasted from Château Olivier

Wonderful to see the work that is being done at Château Olivier. This estate has always been a bit of a hidden gem, especially if you like crisp whites and classic reds, they have never been tempted by the more modern big fruits, that now seems to fade out again of fashion. But they get ever more precise and refined. And now with the work around the mote of the château, this fairy tale looking estate is really shining. If you visit Bordeaux, you should visit Olivier. One of the really old estates of the region. 

2022 Château Olivier blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, some citrus, minerals, light smoky note nose, detailed. Fresh acidity, apples, saline, minerals, nuanced, grapefruits, juicy, nuanced, elegant texture, long. 93

 

2021 Château Olivier blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, some citrus, some vanilla, nuanced, lighter nose. Fresh acidity, apples, some citrus, nuanced, detailed, lighter bodied, refreshing, lovely saline finish, goes on and on. 93

 

2020 Château Olivier blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, some citrus, minerals, nuanced, fruit forward, detailed nose. Fresh acidity, apples, citrus, minerals, detailed, elegant, nuanced, saline, fruit forward, lovely balance, long finish. Wonderful. 94

 

2022 Château Olivier

Ruby. Red berries, dark fruits, anise, liquorice, some spices on the nose, lightly scented, bit tight at this stage.Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, cassis, blackberries, dark fruits, anise, liquorice, juicy, firmer finish, long. 93

 

2021 Château Olivier

Ruby. Red berries, anise, some spices, blackberries, nuanced, fruit forward nose. Somewhat lighter. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, cassis, blackberries, anise, dark fruits and spices, nuanced, long finish if narrower. 91

 

2020 Château Olivier

Ruby. Some vanilla and spices, some coffee notes, cassis and blackberries notes nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, red berries, anise, some spices, liquorice, nuanced, long. Fruit forward. Textured finish. 93

2021 and 2022´s from Château Haut-Brion and Château La Mission Haut-Brion

At Château Haut-Brion and Château La Mission Haut-Brion, there were more dark fruit flavours on the 2021's, than from most estates I tasted 2021's from, showing both the ripeness in the vineyards of Domaines Dillon, but also the precision and finesse and knowledge of the team working here. Very refined and impressive. 

What in general has surprised me during these weeks in Bordeaux, has been that some of the 2021 whites have been a bit skinny, that is not the case here. Wonderful concentration and balance, playful and generous, showing salinity, freshness and creaminess at the same time. 

The 2022's are impressive, but Haut-Brion red just steals the entire show. That aftertaste is otherworldly, it just doesn't stop. The complexity, how it has lost the somewhat sweet baby fat from primeur, and just sharpened up, and got it's tuxedo on. I'm sure there is an Aston Martin waiting for it around the corner somewhere, this is a James Bond of a wine, a multi tasker. Finesse, grace, power, impeccably put together, and already a legend. 

2021 La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion

Ruby. Blackberries, anise, dark fruits, blueberries nose, fruit forward. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries, anise, blueberries, dark fruits, spices, somewhat leaner finish. 91

 

2021 Château La Mission Haut-Brion

Ruby. Blackberries, anise, spices, dark fruits, nuanced, detailed, scented, floral, bright nose, intense. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, spices, liquorice, blackberries, nuanced, detailed, layered, long. 95

 

2021 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion

Ruby. Some vanilla, dark fruits, anise, spices, scented, blackberries, lifted nose, nuanced. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, cassis, blackberries, dark fruits, liquorice, nuanced, detailed, long. 92

 

2021 Château Haut-Brion

Ruby. Blueberries, anise, blackberries, dark fruits, liquorice notes nose. Scented and lifted, has more depth than many this vintage. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, cassis, blackberries, dark fruits, nuanced, layered, deep, intense, minerals, refined, lovely body, long finish. 96

 

2021 La Clarté de Haut-Brion

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, citrus, minerals, fruit forward nose, some vanilla and spices. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, citrus, nuanced, detailed, fruit forward, elegant, refreshing, long. 93

 

2021 Château La Mission Haut-Brion blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, minerals, fruit forward nose, spice, detailed, layered nose. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, minerals, so saline, focused, detailed, bright, nuanced, mouthwatering, such length! 97

 

2021 Château Haut-Brion blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, citrus, minerals, detailed, nuanced, bright, citrus flowers, light vanilla, layered nose. Fresh acidity, lemons, citrus, energetic, detailed, nuanced, somewhat creamy, elegant texture, long finish. 97

 

2022 La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion

Ruby. Scented, blackberries, anise, dark fruits, blueberries, nuanced nose, detailed, almost a slight citrusy high note to it. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, spices, liquorice, blackberries, juicy, somewhat firmer finish, long. 93

 

2022 Château La Mission Haut-Brion

Ruby. Blackberries, dark fruits, anise, liquorice, some spices, scented but denser, firmer nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries, dark fruits, anise, liquorice, intense, deeper, layered, nuanced, incredible length. 97

 

2022 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion

Ruby. Blackberries, anise, dark fruits, some spices, pure and fruit forward nose, scented. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, cassis, blackberries, dark fruits, anise, spices, nuanced, intense, juicy and long. 94

 

2022 Château Haut-Brion

Ruby. Blueberries, blackberries, some cassis, some tobacco, refined, beautiful depth, layered and complex nose. Gorgeous! Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, cassis, blackberries, anise, spices, juicy, detailed, refined, long finish. Tobacco notes, gorgeous texture and an aftertaste that lasts forever. 100

 

2022 La Clarté de Haut-Brion

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, citrus, floral, fruit driven, nuanced, detailed and bright nose. Fresh acidity, apples, citrus, nuanced, detailed, juicy, elegant, long finish, saline. 91

 

2022 Château La Mission Haut-Brion blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, some citrus, fruit forward, detailed, light vanilla note. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, minerals, bright, nuanced, detailed, citrus, intense, layered, lemons, saline, long. 97

 

2022 Château Haut-Brion blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Citrus, apples, nuanced, detailed, fruit forward nose, layered and detailed. Fresh acidity, smooth, rounded, elegant, detailed, very fine tuned, elegant, bright, more tender expression than La Mission white, this vintage, long. 96

The 2022's from Domaine de Chevalier

The entire portfolio from the Bernard's at Domaine de Chevalier has become ever more successful over the last decade. The wines have always showed class and finesse, but Domaine de Chevalier, especially the red, reached a new plateau of concentration, fruit purity and finesse, and it seems that the knowledge and that precision is now being used in all the estates vineyards, and those they rent, so all have now been lifted to a new level. 

Clos des Lunes, situated between Yquem and Guiraud in Sauternes, is, for little money, showing how great the land of Sauternes is for not only iconic sweet whites, but maybe we will see similarly iconic dry whites here in the future? Remember, all the iconic dry whites in Bordeaux, like Domaine de Chevalier itself, are all from Pessac-Léognan. But the 2020, 2022 and 2023 seems to gather new momentum in Sauternes for the dry whites, and I think the next decade will show us wines we never knew before. 

Wonderful Solitude, probably best Lespault-Martillac's to date, Lune d'Or getting ever more concentrated without loosing its tantalising brightness and freshness. And Domaine de Chevalier itself, simply gorgeous wines! Both of them!

2022 Domaine de la Solitude 

Ruby. Blackberries, anise, some spices, dark fruits nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries, anise, dark fruits, juicy, good length. 90

 

2022 Château Lespault-Martillac

Ruby. Blueberries, dark fruits, some liquorice and anise notes nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, some vanilla and spices, liquorice, detailed, nuanced, energetic Lespault-Martillac. 92

 

2022 L'Esprit de Chevalier

Ruby. Blackberries, anise, dark fruits, liquorice, fruit forward nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries, minerals, detailed, nuanced, juicy, detailed, refined, long. 93

 

2022 Domaine de Chevalier

Ruby. Blackberries, anise, liquorice, fruit forward, nuanced, detailed, blackberries nose, firmer. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries, dark fruits, anise, liquorice, detailed, intense and layered, minerals beneath, 97

 

2022 Clos des Lunes Lunes d'Argent

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, citus, fruit driven, nuanced nose. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, some citrus, touch of bitterness, nuanced, good length. 89

 

2022 Clos des Lunes Lune d'Or

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, some tropical fruits, some vanilla notes, spices, fruit forward. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, citrus, some vanilla, detailed, nuanced, layered, intense, long. 93

 

2022 Domaine de la Solitude blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, some peach and grapefruits, orange note. Fresh acidity, apples, rounded, yellow fruits, nuanced, elegant texture, good length. 88

 

2022 Château Lespault-Martillac blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, some citrus, minerals, nuanced, fruit forward, detailed nose. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, minerals, detailed, saline, nuanced, juicy, refined, wonderful Lespault-Martillac blanc. 93

 

2022 L'Esprit de Chevalier blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Citrus, apples, lemons, minerals, fruit forward, nuanced, detailed nose. Fresh acidity, detailed, nuanced, fruit driven, detailed, minerals, saline, focused, long. A beauty. 93

 

2022 Domaine de Chevalier blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, citrus, minerals, nuanced, vanilla, detailed, bright nose, complex and layered.Fresh acidity, minerals, saline, nuanced, refreshing, citrus, bright, intense, layered, long. Stunning. 97

Visiting Château Carbonnieux, tasting 2022, 2021 and 2020

Visiting Château Carbonnieux and tasting through the tre very different vintages of 2020, 2021 and 2022 was the first indication of what was to follow over the next weeks. Not that I was surprised, I have tasted all during primeur, and some also later on, but 2021 is the leaner and more classic vintage, sometimes quite green, other times, not really. But 2020 always show more fruit and intensity, as does 2022. For some 2020 is bolder, for some 2022. What I didn't expect, was how good the whites have turned out in 2020. During primeur I found that some lacked a bit of acidity, well, some did in 2022 as well, but the few years since then, seems to have given a new energy to both these vintages whites. They are generally invigorating, smooth and have a lovely salinity to them. 

2022 Château Carbonnieux blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Lemons, some citrus, minerals, apples, fruit forward, nuanced, elegant nose. Some floral high notes. Fresh acidity, apples, rounded, elegant, nuanced, detailed, fruit forward, lovely balance, long finish. 92

 

2021 Château Carbonnieux blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, lighter nose, nuanced, some light floral notes nose. Fresh acidity, elegant fruit and body, refreshing, nuanced, elegant, detailed, long finish. Lighter salinity. 92

 

2020 Château Carbonnieux blanc

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, grapefruits, minerals, citrus, detailed nose, nuanced. Lovely citrusy lift to it. Fresh acidity, apples, rounded, fruit forward, nuanced, juicy, refreshing, elegant and long. Saline and detailed, lovely balance. 94

 

2022 Château Carbonnieux

Ruby. Dark fruits, anise, blackberries, vanilla, spices, blueberries, fruit forward nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries, dark fruits, anise, liquorice, fruit forward, quite dense, long finish. A richer and bolder Carbonnieux. 93

 

2021 Château Carbonnieux

Ruby. Scented, red berries, cassis, some floral notes, light herbal note behind. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, red fruits, anise, some herbs, blackberries, dark fruits, some spices, good length. 89

 

2020 Château Carbonnieux

Ruby. Cassis, blackberries, anise, dark fruits, nuanced nose, scented and lifted. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries, dark fruits, anise, liquorice, detailed and long. Some spices. 92

 

2022 Rosé de Carbonnieux

Pale pink. Red berries, some spices, light liquorice notes nose, faintly floral. Fresh acidity, red berries, lighter bodied, anise, nuanced, elegant texture, good length. 85

A few dinner wines

2017 Château Meyney

Ruby. Cassis, blackberries, anise, blueberries, fruit driven, tobacco notes nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, cassis, dark fruits, liquorice, detailed, nuanced, long. 90

 

2017 Château d'Agassac

Ruby. Blackberries, blueberries, some herbs, fruit forward nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries, anise, spices, leaner bodied, textured, good length. 89

 

2016 Château Cantegril

Towards golden. Peach, apricots, fruit forward, fruit driven nose, nuanced. Fresh acidity, sweet, apricots, peach, pure, nuanced and detailed, lovely energy and balance, long. 90

Visiting Château de Rayne Vigneau

This January I spent four weeks visiting and tasting more than 1200 wines in Bordeaux. The main purpose was to taste 2022 liverables, meaning the wines leaving the estates this winter and spring, to hit the shelf sometime over the next months. 

But I also wanted to have a look at 2021 and 2020. But my second aim was to visit estates that I have either never been to, or haven't been to in a long time. I have been wanting to do this tripe for several years, but then Covid hit, and after that, my schedule has just been som incredibly busy elsewhere, so, now it was finally the time. 

First visit was in Sauternes and Château de Rayne Vigneau, a property I have only visited once before. I think we concluded that it was in 2014. So ten years ago. I do love Sauternes, and the wines from Rayne Vigneau is no exception. We had a very interesting talk about the importance of a light bitterness to deal with the residual sugar, in a Sauternes, to make it feel a bit drier on the palate. And how to balance that. 

We also talked about the unfortunate, but very real problems in selling these gorgeous wines in the market. But what this tasting and following tastings over the week spent in Sauternes and Pessac-Léognan also showed me, was how many wonderful dry white wines that are now emerging in this part of Bordeaux. The top Pessac-Léognan's have made gorgeous dry white wines for decades, as have the likes of Doisy Daëne and Yquem, but in the last decade or two, several more has occurred. But now it seems almost everyone make a lovely dry white. It was my first sip of the relatively new Château de Rayne Vigneau Blanc Sec, and I encountered it again a few weeks later. A wonderful dry white. Le Sec de Rayne Vigneau is a bargain! As is the Sauternes. And drinking a few bottles a year of Sauternes, with friends will only make you happier. I'm sure. 

2016 Le Sec de Rayne Vigneau

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, some citrus, minerals, almost saline note nose. Fresh acidity, apples, grapefruits, minerals, saline notes, nuanced and detailed, elegant, long. 90

 

2022 Château de Rayne Vigneau Blanc Sec

Pale lemon yellow. 2000 bottles made. First vintage commercialised, but has been made since 2012. Apples, some grapefruits, honey melon, light vanilla note, elegant nose. Fresh acidity, apples, citrus, saline, oysters, nuanced, minerals, detailed, slight bitterness to the finish. 93

 

2014 Le Sec de Rayne Vigneau

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, citrus, nuanced, floral, minerals, deatiled nose. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, citrus, bright, brilliant, lovely wine, drinking superbly now. Saline finish. Somewhat smoky finish, despite no wood in the winemaking. 91

 

2015 Madame de Rayne

Towards amber. Peach, pineapples, nuanced, detailed, fruit forward, detailed nose. Fresh acidity, peach, apricots, elegant texture, smooth, rounded, nuanced, lovely balance. Good length. 89

 

2021 Château de Rayne Vigneau 

Golden. Peach, apricots, pineapples, fruit forward, nuanced nose. Fresh acidity, apples, nuanced, juicy, fruit driven, elegant, one of the few estates with a fairly normal production in 2021. 91

 

2017 Château de Rayne Vigneau 

Golden. Richer nose, intense, fruit forward, nuanced, layered and detailed nose. Complex. Some tea notes.Fresh acidity, peach, detailed, nuanced, juicy, apricots, pineapples, refined, nuanced, long finish. A beauty! Incredibly charming! 93

 

2009 Château de Rayne Vigneau 

Giolden, amber tints. Creamy, rich, intense nose, apricots, peach, pineapples, fruit forward. Fresh acidity, intense, creamy, richer, layered, nuanced, deep, stunning concentration, refined, long. 94

 

2005 Château de Rayne Vigneau 

Golden,. Amber tints. Peach, apricots, some forest floor notes, nuanced, detailed, bright yet maturing nose.Fresh acidity, detailed, nuanced, somewhat leaner body, fruit driven, peach, pineapples, long finish. In a tight spot right now. 93

 

2002 Château de Rayne Vigneau 

Amber. Richer, caramel, nuanced, detailed, fruit forward and developing. Also fruit stones. Fresh acidity, peach, apples, pineapples, lighter bodied, detailed, elegant, touch smoky, touch of salinity, long . 91

2004 Brane Cantenac tasted

2004 Château Brane Cantenac

Ruby, thin garnet rim. Cassis, blueberries, some dates and figs, leather notes, floral, scented nose, charming.Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, cassis, red fruits, figs, softer texture, getting mellow and more amture, nuanced and elegant, long. 93