2020 Castillon Côte de Bordeaux

 2020 Castillon primeur

Many good wines here, some amongst the best I have tasted from the estate, and they have more fruit and finesse than usual for the structure, yet are not big. A vintage to explore Castillon! 

2020 Château d’Aiguilhe

APR 21 Ruby. Blackberries, fruit driven, nuanced nose, anise and spices. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, red fruits, anise, juicy, detailed, nuanced and long. Lovely energy to it. 91-93

2020 Le Blanc d’Aigulhe

APR 21 Pale lemon yellow. Apples, pears, peach, fruit driven nose. Fresh acidity, apples, pears, peach, elegant texture, good length. 87-89

2020 Château Ampélia

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, anise, fruit driven, some spices nose. Fresh acidity m ripe tannins, dark fruits, spices, liquorice, woody finish. 89-91

2020 L’Aurage 

Ruby. Scented, spicy, exotic nose with lush ripe raspberries and blackberries nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, vanilla, blackberries, dark fruits, intense, big, sweet and rich but has lift. 14,5% alcohol. 90-92

2020 Château La Brande

APR 21 67M 22CF 8CS 3PV Ruby. Blackberries, raspberries, scented, fine fruit driven nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, juicy, dark fruits, anise, some spices, elegant texture, a fine La Barnde. 89-91

2020 Château Clarisse

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, anise, fruit driven nose, some spices. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, spices, liquorice, juicy, good length. 88-90

2020 Château Côte Montpezat Cuvée Compostelle

MAY 21 Ruby. Blueberries, fruit driven nose, some light spices, scented. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, spices, liquorice, quite a bit of wood. 88-90

2020 Château Dubois-Grimon

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, anise, fruit driven nose, scented. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, lacks a bit of lift, borderline jammy but fruit handles structure well, quite firm, good length. 88-90

2020 Château de Laussac

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, anise, fruit driven nose, spices. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, juicy, some spices, anise, good length. 87-89

2020 Château de Laussac Cuvée Sacha

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, anise, fruit driven, blueberries nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, blackberries and spices, good length. Lots of bitter wood. 87-89

2020 Château Montlandrie

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, blueberries, some spices on the nose, light scented note, bit deeper for Castillon this year. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, blackberries and spices, fruit driven, long finish. Nice lift in the finish.90-92

2020 Château de la Pierre Levée

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, dark fruits and herbs nose, leaner. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, spices and liquorice, good length. 87-89

2020 Clos Puy Arnaud 

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, anise, spices, fruit driven nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, juicy, spices, has lift and energy to it but also alcohol warmth. 89-91

2020 Château Le Rey Les Argileuses

APR 21 80M 20CF Ruby. Blackberries, dark fruits, somewhat jammy nose, sweet fruits. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, smooth, rounded, sweet dark fruits, alcohol warmth in the finish. 14,6% alcohol. 87-89

2020 Château Le Rey Les Rocheuses

APR 21 80M 20 CF 5000 bottles made. Ruby. Anise, dark fruits, some spices, tobacco and minerals nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, rich and plummy, long finish. A bit of alcohol warmth. 88-90

2020 Bordeaux

 2020 Bordeaux Primeur

Some very lovely wines in the Bordeaux appelation in 2020, Girolate and Reignac especially, but there are a few more recommendations here. 

2020 Château Auguste

MAY 21 Ruby. Anise, herbs, blackberries and vanilla nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, some spices, liquorice, good length. 86-88

2020 Château Auguste Rosé 

MAY 21 Pink. Light red fruit driven nose and palate, fruit driven if light, good length. 83

2020 Bad Boy

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, anise, some spices nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruit driven, dark fruits, good length. 85-87

2020 Balthus

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries and blueberries, fruit driven and scented nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blackberries and spices, juicy, some coffee, good length. 88-90

2020 Château Bel-Air

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, vanilla, spices nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, light bodied. 84-86

2020 Château Bel-Air Cuvée Divine

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, anise, fruit driven nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, leaner bodied. 86-88

2020 Château de Birazel Auguste

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, cassis, some vanilla and spices nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, spices, liquorice, good length. Quite woody. 86-88

2020 Château de Birazel Romane blanc

MAY 21 Pale straw yellow. Vanilla, spices, some grapefruits nose. Fresh acidity, apples, pears, fruit driven if leaner. 86-88

2020 Château du Bois Chantant

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, anise, some herbs nose, anise. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner bodied, anise, some herbs, bit thin. 84-86

2020 Château Bois Pertuis

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, anise, fruit driven nose, some spices. Herbs. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, some spices, leaner finish. 85-87

2020 Château Boutillon Luigi

APR 21 100M Ruby. Scented, red fruits, anise, light and pleasing nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, some vanilla, light bodied, bit short. 86

2020 Château Boutillot

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, anise, lighter nose, lean even. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, leaner bodied, elegant texture. 85-87

2020 Chardonneret

MAY 21 Pale lemon yellow. Some citrus, grapefruits and canned pears nose. Light. Fresh acidity, lighter, leaner, refreshing. 84-86

2020 Clarendelle Rouge

APR 21 59M 27CS 14CF Ruby. Blackberries, blueberries, dark fruits and anise, some alcohol high notes on the nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, sweet liquorice, alcohol warmth. 87-89

2020 Château Curton la Perriere

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, anise, fruit driven nose, scented. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, juicy with some texture, good length. 87-89

2020 Château L’Eperon

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, anise, fruit driven nose, spices. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, vanilla and chocolate, good length. 84-86

2020 Château L’Eperon blanc

MAY 21 Pale lemon yellow. Yellow apples and pears nose. Fresh acidity, rounded, fruit driven, easy going. 83-85

2020 L’Exception 1600

MAY 21 Ruby. Dark fruits, anise, blackberries nose, spices. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, spices, liquorice, good length. 86-88

2020 Château Fleur Haut Gaussens

APR 21 Ruby. Blackberries, anise, fruit driven nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, spices, leaner. 85-87

2020 Château La Fontaine de Genin

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, anise, spices, some vanilla nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, some coffee, good length. 86-88

2020 Girolate 

MAY 21 Ruby. Anise, liquorice, blackberries and vanilla nose, some coffee. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, juicy, spices, vanilla, good long. 90-92

2020 Girolate blanc

MAY 21 Pale lemon yellow. Pears, fruit driven, leaner nose, some peach notes nose. Fresh acidity, fruit driven, elegant texture, peach, pears and apples, rounded, fairly detailed, long. 89-91

2020 Château Haut L’Abeille Les Robins

MAY 21 Ruby. Herbs, blackberries and vanilla nose, light. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, red fruits, anise, light bodied, herbs. 83-85

2020 Château Haut L’Abeille Les Robins blanc

MAY 21 Pale straw yellow. Pears and leach nose, vanilla. Medium acidity, soft, fruit driven and light. 84-86

2020 Château Haut-Fontenelle Rosé 

MAY 21 Light apples and red fruits nose. Fresh acidity, apples, lighter body and texture, good length. 83

2020 Hubert de Boüard Rosé 

MAY 21 Watery pink. Light red fruits nose. Fresh acidity, apples, red fruits, elegant texture, good length. 84

2020 Hubert de Boüard Sauvignon 

MAY 21 Pale lemon yellow. Some vanilla, citrus and gooseberries nose. Fresh acidity, apples, pears, fruit driven, elegant texture, good length. 86-88

2020 Hubert de Boüard Semillon

MAY 21 Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, fruit driven, light vanilla note nose. Fresh acidity, apples, rounded, some grapefruits, faint smokiness, good length. 87-89

2020 Hubert de Boüard Chardonnay 

MAY 21 Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, fruit driven, pears and peach nose. Fresh acidity, fruit driven, pears, apples, lemons, elegant texture, good length. 87-89

2020 Hubert de Boüard Merlot

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, anise, fruit driven, some spices nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, spices, juicy, good length. 86-88

2020 Hubert de Boüard Cabernet Sauvignon 

Ruby. Blackberries, cassis, anise, light vanilla and spices nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, spices, blackberries, detailed, good length. 87-89

2020 Hubert de Boüard Cabernet Franc

Ruby. Blackberries, dark fruits, anise, spices, floral high notes. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, spices, liquorice, good length. 87-89

2020 Château Lamothe Vincent

APR 21 Ruby. Blackberries, anise, lighter nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, some spices, good length. 86-88

2020 Château Laurence

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, anise, fruit driven nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, spices, good length. Bit structured finish. 86-88

2020 Petite Laurence 

MAY 21 Ruby. Red fruits, anise, darker berries nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, red fruits, blackberries, some anise, leaner bodied, good length. 85-87

2020 Laurence

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, fruit driven nose, blueberries. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, darkfruits, anise, some spices, leaner finish, elegant texture. 86-88

2020 Château Laurence blanc sec

MAY 21 Pale lemon yellow. Pears, some citrus and vanilla nose, lighter. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, fruit driven, elegant texture, good length. 87-89

2020 Petite Laurence blanc sec

MAY 21 Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, light smoky gooseberries nose. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, light bodied. 83-85

2020 Château Leroy-Beauval

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries and anise, fruit driven nose, spices and light vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, vanilla, rounded even if leaner, good length. 86-88

2020 Château Leroy-Beauval blanc

MAY 21 Pale lemon yellow. Some grapefruits, apples, lemons nose, lighter. Fresh acidity, rounded, lighter bodied, touch bitter, grapefruits finish. 85-87

2020 Château Mont-Pérat

MAY 21 Ruby. Anise, fruit driven nose, lighter, some vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, juicy with some texture, elegant. 86-88

2020 Château Mont-Pérat blanc

MAY 21 Pale lemon yellow. Apples, fruit driven, lighter nose. Fresh acidity, pears, peach, some vanilla, good length. Elegant texture but lacks some lift. 86-88

2020 Château Moya

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries and cassis, fruit driven nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits and liquorice, a little bit hollow, good length. 86-88

2020 Naujan

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, anise, liquorice, dark fruits nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, spices, juicy, good length. 89-91

2020 Naujan blanc

MAY 21 Pale lemon yellow. Apples, citrus and grapefruits nose. Fresh acidity, apples, pears, fruit driven, good length. 87-89

2020 Château Pabus

MAY 21 Ruby. Scented, blackberries and anise nose, some vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, juicy, lovely texture, good length. 87-89

2020 Château Penin Les Cailloux

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, cassis, dark fruits and vanilla nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, light bodied, elegant texture. 86-88

2020 Château Penin blanc

MAY 21 Pale lemon yellow. Apples, leaner nose, light vanilla. Fresh acidity, apples, pears, peach, leaner bodied, good length. 85-87

2020 Château Pey La Tour

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, anise, raspberries nose, lighter. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, some spices, liquorice, good length. 86-88

2020 Puy Redon Chardonnay

MAY 21 Pale lemon yellow. Lemons, apples, some vanilla, lighter nose. Fresh acidity, apples, rounded, elegant texture, bit lean. Touch buttery finish. 86-88

2020 Reignac

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, blueberries, fruit driven nose, some vanilla and spices, truffles and chocolate. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, spices, blackberries, juicy, structured, detailed and long. 90-92

2020 Château Sainte Barbe

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, anise, fruit driven nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner bodied, anise, some spices, juicy. 86-88

2020 Château Sainte-Marie VV

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, anise, fruit driven nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lots of wood and wood spices, already drying on the palate. 82-84

2020 Château des Songes Song

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, anise, dark fruits nose, spices. Not that intense. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, leaner finish, some herbs. 83-85

2020 Château Talmont

MAY 21 Ruby. Cassis, anise, some faint minerals nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, red fruits, dark berries, anise and vanilla, good length. 86-88

2020 Château Talmont Cuvée Divine

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, anise, blueberries nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, spices, leaner bodied, good length. 86-88

2020 Château Thenac

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, anise, fruit driven nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, liquorice, good length. 87-89

2020 Château Thenac blanc

MAY 21 Pale lemon yellow. Apples, peach, pears and vanilla nose. Fresh acidity, apples, pears, nuanced, elegant texture, candied lemons, good length. 88-90

2020 Château Timberlay Cuvée Marie Paule Prestige

MAY 21 Ruby. Herbs, vanilla and some dark fruits nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, some herbs, lighter. 84-86

2020 Château Tour de Bellegarde

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, anise, blueberries nose, leaner, herbs. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner bodied, refreshing, elegant texture, bright fruit. 85-87

2020 Château Tour de Bellegarde blanc

MAY 21 Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lighter nose, fruit driven. Medium acidity, rounded, yellow apples and pears, bit short. 83-85

2020 Château au Vignoble

MAY 21 Ruby. Blackberries, anise, leaner nose, some vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripte tannins, anise, light bodied, leaner. 83-85

2020 Primeur

2020 Bordeaux

As I write this more than 670 samples of 2020 have been tasted from home. An unprecedented amount of wine and logistics to organise and taste and pick up samples while others come to the door. Lots of cardboard and empty bottles. It takes a lot of organising and hopefully the world is normal again next year, so I can actually travel to Bordeaux again. And the big question everyone is asking me is, how is it compared to 2019 and 2018?

For the 2019 primeur campaign I was a little late on the trigger as I thought and hoped travels would be possible again in June last year, (ever optimistic) and realising that would not happen, when I finally accepted samples many thought temperatures were getting risky for samples. So I did not taste many of the benchmark estates, and 2019 is therefore still somewhat elusive for me. I do not really have a feel for that vintage, bit received some stunning samples this spring from Montrose, Pichon Comtesse, Palmer, Brane Cantenac, La Conseillante and Figeac, and those were superb. 

And from what I have tasted, I would say 2019 has the edge on 2020, but I have tasted about 280 2019’s compared to 670 plus 2020’s. So my experience of 2020 is far superior. 2018 in barrel was one thousand tasting notes, my largest ever report, and several hundred (not yet published but will follow very shortly) in bottle has been tasted. 2018 is different, very big and rich and fruit driven with high alcohol, sometimes to high. That seems to be very rare thing with 2020. Very few wines lacks balance and many have a fine energy to them. 

But some 2020’s still lack a bit of personality, they are fine and well made, but seems to lack just that little something that they seem to have in 2019. I particularly fell in love with Margaux where even fairly easy going estates showed highly scented and charming wines. Palmer Durfort-Vivens and Margaux did not send samples, but nearly everyone else did. And I have to say they are hugely charming. 

Rauzan-Ségla, Cantenac-Brown, Ferriere, Lascombes, Dauzac, Giscours, Grand Tayac and Siran may have made one of their greatest efforts ever, but Issan, Malescot St Exupery and Brane Cantenac are also very impressive! 

The other commune that blew me away was Saint-Emilion were many have made their most refined expressions to date. Many wines were both fruit driven and deep yet showed floral and scented high notes and minerality. Nearly all have a wonderful energy and brightness that isn’t always that evident while they are young. A fascinating vintage in Saint-Emilion. Even if some top estates did not send samples due to fear of unstable samples and it doesn’t help with quarrelsome Norwegian customs... 

One of the greatest ever from Fleur Cardinal, Valandraud, Pressac and Mangot at one end of the plateau, but also at Villemaurine, Clos Fourtet and Canon at the other end, and Figeac closer to Pomerol. Quintus is showing more details and is less opulence and it really suits it, and Angelus may be just behind the stunning 2019, but still an incredible effort. Last three vintages are so much more floral and nuanced than ever before, and that may be because of Cabernet Franc now handled in large fuders rather than barrique. But there are many more stars in Saint-Emilion, that report need a thorough read through! 

I have never encountered finesse in Saint-Emilion such as in this vintage. Every wine screams terroir like violins playing the rythm behind the fruit. It is amazing to see how they shine, how detailed they are. Don’t think I have every enjoyed tasting through this appellation as much. They have a proper energy to them and graphite minerals as well as floral high notes on wines I don’t think I have ever described that way before. Almost every single one is of interest, some of much more than interest. Canon-La-Gaffeliere and Mondotte was another two utterly seductive addresses for really fine wines. La Croizille and Tour Baladoz has both found a finesse never ever seen from there before. This is a vintage to really explore Saint-Emilion. My mouth goes watery as I write and think back on these wines... 

Pomerol unfortunately lacked so many great names that it is hard to say something clear about the appelation, but that said, Bourgneuf, Petit Village and Gazin may have made one of their finest ever, beautiful Eglise-Clinet and I was spellbound by La Conseillante. The whole room filled with violets as I opened the cork! Some absolutely stunning Pomerol’s but a thin report compared to the ones I do when in Bordeaux. 

Fronsac also seems to have had a superb vintage, Dalem, Fontenil, Gaby and more on top of their game again this year. Fronsac is on a roll and excellent value still for the savvy buyer. They age beautifully as well, 30 years will be no problem for many of these. 

From the satellite appelations we see ever better wines, and some are outright bargains not to be missed by savvy buyers. 

Pessac-Léognan has some stunning reds, no doubt about, but some are getting Amarone levels of alcohol, and all cannot hide it any longer. Haut-Brion clocking in at 15% is getting a bit heavy footed. It is a superb Haut-Brion, but I do wonder how it will age. It will age, superbly, but will it have the Haut-Brion address with this style? 

Domaine de Chevalier keeps turning out excellent wines on a new level since 2018 and the red is now one of the most serious in the region. Haut-Bailly is impressive and dense but like Haut-Brion borderline big. Les Carmes Haut-Brion is on a winning streak as well with another super fine vintage. The dry whites were surprisingly fresh in their expression, because the acidity could be higher to retain freshness. They are smooth and a more rounded style. 

Sauternes shows very pure fruit and elegance but like the dry whites acidity could be more playful. 

Haut-Medoc and Médoc seems to have done well, some Cru Bourgeois has made amongst or even their best effort to date. Another star of the vintage is La Lagune. This could be their finest effort to date. 

Saint-Estephe seems to have done very well, Cos d’Estournel is flying these days, stunning wines with such depth and finesse. Calon-Ségur seemed overshadowed by wood, and I am not as sure about the new style from here as some are. It is still fine, but not the classic style many of you will think of with Calon. Phélan Ségur showed beautifully, as did Lafon-Rochet and Haut-Marbuzet. 

Pauillac was mixed. Not that the wines are bad, because they really aren’t. But several lacks a bit of energy and lift as well as scented notes, and even if I preffer most 2020 Pauillac’s to their 2018 Napa Valley styled counterparts, I missed a bit of energy in them. A few not tasted, truly loved Mouton, both Pichon’s and Lynch-Bages was a star! More finesse in Pédesclaux was positive. I think we also saw the start of a more fine tuned style for Haut-Batailley. 

Saint-Julien also lacked a few samples and a few more are on they’re way as I write this, but seems to be a mix between lacking just a little bit of energy like some Pauillacs and a more lifted expression that Margaux has. Lagrange is best ever from that estate, Beychevelle is superb, and very fine from Langoa Barton, Léoville Barton and St Pierre. 

The problem with not tasting everything is that there are gaps in the experience and therefore this is not a complete picture. And some of the wines missing are also some of those one has tasted the most from and therefore know the style and adress of better. Something that also helps with seeing how this vintage sit in the family tree. But from what I have tasted there are some stars this vintage, bit I feel it is just behind 2019. And I can’t wait to taste 2019 from bottle I have to say. That will give much more as I never tasted many of them from barrel. 

2019 has many new stars, so many wines many readers have never heard of have made their best wines ever. So take a deep look into everything from AOC Bordeaux to satelite communes, Graves, Médoc and Fronsac. You will find inexpensive stars this vintage. As well as superb stuff from well known addresses. 

I absolutely adore 2016, and I have a feeling that 2020 will follow in that category and I so wish that I could have tasted just a few more of the estates I know by heart. Lets see how the world economy will take the prices when more are released. I for one can’t wait to taste these again from bottle!