fredag 12. april 2019

2018 Primeur, Médoc, Moulis and Listrac





In Médoc Moulis and Listrac there are some stars this year with denser, richer wines than usual which can be a good thing to balance those sometimes rather rough structures and tannins that doesn’t always have the body and concentration to match. This year there are more meat on the bone. But some are also alcoholic and gone too far for many palates. So read the tasting notes on the wines you are after carefully to check if it is in a style you like. There are wines this year that are the best or among the best ever from the estate. Then it will be up to you if you approve of that style, or not. Some will be a bit untypical. Poujeaux for example is quite rich and dense. On the other side, when I tried a 1928 Poujeaux last year, brought directly from the estates cellar by owner Matthieu Cuvelier, that was also surprisingly dense, rich and big even now. So maybe we have a new 1928 on our hands 90 years after. There will be lots of value in this segment. Another 70 tasting notes.


Médoc

2018 Château d'Argan
APR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, lighter fruits nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh and elegant if lighter. 83-85

2018 Château Beauvillage
APR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, spices, some liquorice nose, vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, richer, dark fruity, spicy, good length. 85-87

2018 Château Blaignan
Ruby. Anise, dark fruity, blueberries nose. Cassis and lightly scented. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruity, blueberries and spices, anise, good length. 86-88

2018 Quintessence Château Blaignan
Ruby. Dark fruits, anise, spices, liquorice nose. Vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, dark fruity, spices, some alcohol, richer, good length. 88-90

2018 Château Prieuré de Blaignan
Ruby. Anise, dark fruity, some spices nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries and spices, liquorice, detailed, long. Lovely juiciness in this one. 89-91

2018 Château Bournac
MAR 19 Ruby. Anise, blueberries, some spices nose. Wood. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blueberries, anise, liquorice, good length. 86-88

2018 Château La Branne
APR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, scented, some vanilla notes nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries, dark fruity, spices, good length. 86-88

2018 Château des Brousteras
APR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, some spices, anise nose, liquorice. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lively, raspberries, fresh and elegant. Lovely! 87-89

2018 Château La Cardonne
MAR 19 Ruby. Scented, blueberries, some anise, fresh fruity nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh, fruity, elegant texture, good length. 86-88

2018 Château La Chandelliere
MAR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, spices nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries and spices, good length. Bit hollow. 85-87

2018 Château d Escurac
MAR 19 Ruby. Dark fruits, anise, blueberries nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lean bodied and alcoholic high notes. 84-86

2018 Château La France Delhomme
MAR 19 Ruby. Dark fruity, spices, vanilla nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blueberries, spices, juicy. 87-89

2018 Goulée
APR 19 Ruby. Scented, blueberries, anise, floral, nuanced, denser nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, smooth, elegant, dark fruits, lush, good length. 88-90

2018 Château Les Grands Chênes
MAR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, some spices, liquorice nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries and spices, spicy woody finish. 87-89

2018 Château Greysac
MAR 19 Ruby. Anise, blueberries, some spices, liquorice nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries and spices, good length. 86-88

2018 Château Grivière
MAR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, scented nose, detailed. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruity body, some structure behind, good length. 86-88

2018 Château Haut Condissas
MAR 19 Ruby. Cassis, blueberries, ripe and somewhat jammy nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blueberries, anise, jammy, bit short. 84-86

2018 Château Lestruelle
MAR 19 Ruby. Dark fruity nose, spices. Lightly scented. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lighter fruit and body. 85-87

2018 Château Loudenne
MAR 19 Ruby. Anise, blueberries, some herbs nose, some spices. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries, some spices and alcohol in the finish. 85-87

2018 Château Lousteauneuf
MAR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, some spices, ripe nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, jammy, dark fruity, trying bit hard. 84-86

2018 Château Maison Blanche
MAR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, dark fruity nose. Spices. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries, some spices, juicy. 86-88

2018 Château Noaillac
MAR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, some spices nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries, spicy, good length. Refreshing. 87-89

2018 Château Patache d'Aux
MAR 19 Ruby. Anise, blackberries, spices nose. Woody. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, structured and firm, good length. 87-89

2018 Château Poitevin
MAR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, spices nose, lighter. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, spices, blueberries. Good length. 86-88

2018 Château Potensac
APR 19 Ruby. Scented, dark fruity, anise, blueberries, liquorice, ripe nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries, some spices, dark fruity, detailed, long. 90-92

2018 Chapelle de Potensac
APR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, spices, dark fruity nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lighter bodied, dark fruits, elegant texture, good length. 87-89

2018 Château Preuillac
MAR 19 Ruby. Blackberries, anise, spices, liquorice nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries,  rounded texture. 86-88

2018 Château Ramafort
MAR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, fruity, scented nose, elegant. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries, lighter bodied, good length. 86-88

2018 Château La Ribaud
MAR 19 Ruby. Dark fruity, anise, blackberries and spices nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries and spices. 86-88

2018 Château Rollan de By
MAR 19 Ruby. Anise, blueberries, some spices, peppery nose, vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries, bit hollow mid palate and finish. 85-87

2018 Château La Tour de By
MAR 19 Ruby. Cassis, blueberries, some scented notes nose, intense for La Tour de By. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries and spices, liquorice, long. 89-91

2018 Château Tour Haut-Caussan
Ruby. Blueberries, ripe, rich and dark fruity nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries, dark fruity, spicy, good length. 86-88

2018 Château Tour Séran
MAR 19 Ruby. Dark fruits, anise and spices nose, liquorice. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries, spices, liquorice, good length. 86-88

2018 Château Tour St Bonnet
MAR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, spices, fruity, elegant nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries and spices, juicy. 87-89



Moulis

2018 Château Anthonic
APR 19 Ruby. Anise, spices, blueberries, cassis nose. Lighter nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries and spices, dark berries, structured, quite firm actually, good length. 87-89

2018 Château Biston-Brilette
APR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, spices, dark fruity, minerals, floral nose, quite intense. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries, spices, firmer. 88-90

2018 Château Branas Grand Poujeaux
MAR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, some spices nose, dark fruity. Fresh acidity, dark fruity, some spices and anise, leaner bodied. Good length. 87-89

2018 Château Brillette
Ruby. Blueberries, anise, spices, dark berries and spices nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, dark fruity, spices, good length. 88-90

2018 Château Chasse Spleen
MAR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, scented, layered nose, cassis. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blueberries, anise, some spices, liquorice, long finish. 91-93

2018 Château Caroline
Ruby. Blueberries, anise, floral, scented, raspberries nose. Vanilla. Fresh avidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries, spices, structured body and finish. 87-89

2018 Château Chemin Royal
Ruby. Blueberries, cassis, dark fruits, scented if a bit lighter. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner bodied, red fruity, good length. 85-87

2018 Château Duplessis
Ruby. Spices, blueberries, ripe, rich nose, dark fruity. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruity, jammy, woody and alcoholic. 84-86

2018 Château Guitignan
Ruby. Blueberries, anise, spices, some herbal notes nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lighter bodied, cassis and anise, good length. 86-88

2018 Château Lalaudey
Ruby. Blueberries, anise, spices, liquorice, some herbs in the far back on the nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries, some spices, leaner bodied, good length. 85-87

2018 Château Maucaillou
MAR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, spices, liquorice, detailed, some floral notes nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries, some spices, elegant texture even if structured, long. 90-92

2018 Château Mauvesin Barton
MAR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, some spices, ripe nose, some alcohol. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, jammy and dark fruity, some spices, liquorice, good length. Bit hollow. 87-89

2018 Château Moulin a Vent
MAR 19 Ruby. Dark fruity nose, some spices, rich and ripe nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruity, spices, liquorice, dark berries and spices, rich. 86-88

2018 Château La Mouline
Ruby. Blueberries, anise, spices, dark fruity and herbal nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries, good length. 86-88

2018 Château Myon de l'Enclos
Ruby. Blueberries, scented, vanilla, dark fruity nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries, spices, detailed, good length. 88-90

2018 Château Pomeys
Ruby. Blueberries, anise, some spices, slightly scented nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries, some spices, good length. 87-89

2018 Château Poujeaux
MAR 19 Ruby. Cassis, blackberries, anise, spices, nuanced, scented, faint floral note nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blueberries, anise, some spices, liquorice, juicy with structure, long. 92-94


Listrac

2018 Château Baudan
Ruby. Scented, lighter nose, dark and red fruity, spicy. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, dark and red fuity, lighter. 84-86

2018 Château Cap Léon Veyrin
MAR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, some spices, fruity nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, lighter bodied, good length. 85-87

2018 Château Capdet
Ruby. Dark fruity, anise, blueberries, spices, ripe, nose, lighter. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner, dark fruity and herbal, good length. 85-87

2018 Château Clarke
MAR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, spices, some vanilla notes nose. Lightly scented. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries and spices, elegant texture, good length. 88-90

2018 Château Donissan
Ruby. Blueberries, anise, some spices, blackberries nose. Scented. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries, spices, dark fruity, good length. 86-88

2018 Château Ducluzeau
APR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, spices, liquorice nose, floral. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries, anise, elegant. 87-89

2018 Château L'Ermitage
Ruby, dark fruity, some spices, ripe, detailed, elegant, scented nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries, spices, dense and dark fruity, good length. 87-89

2018 Château Fonréaud
MAR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, liquorice, cassis, scented nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries, spices, structured, firm finish, good length. 88-90

2018 Château Fourcas-Borie
APR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, cassis, some floral notes nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blueberries and spices, juicy, good length. 87-89

2018 Château Fourcas Dupré
MAR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, some spices, liquorice nose. Bit lighter. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, spices, blueberries, firm structure, good length. 87-89

2018 Château Fourcas Hosten
MAR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, spices, scented notes nose. Elegant. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blueberries, spices, detailed, elegant texture even with more structure behind, long. Fourcas Hosten seems to be setting a new pace these days. 90-92

2018 Château Lafon
Ruby. Anise, blueberries, lighter red fruity nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, light bodied, red fruity, anise, spices, herbal. 83-85

2018 Château Lalande
Ruby. Red fruity, anise, spices, blueberries, spices, lighter nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries, some spices, elegant. 85-87

2018 Château Lestage
MAR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, spices, dark fruity nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blueberries, spices, juicy, long. 89-91

2018 Château Liouner
Ruby. Blueberries, anise, dark fruity, spices, liquorice nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blueberries, anise, spices, lighter, dark fruity. 85-87

2018 Château Mayne Lalande
Ruby. Blueberries, anise, dark berries, elegantly scented nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruity, juicy, blueberries and cassis, structured behind, good length. 88-90

2018 Château Reverdi
Ruby. Anise, blueberries, dark fruity, scented, violets nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries, some spices, good length. 86-88

2018 Château Saransot-Dupré
Ruby. Blueberries, anise, spices, dark fruity nose, vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruity, anise, blueberries and spices, quite juicy, good length. 88-90

2018 Château Vieux Moulin
Ruby. Blueberries, anise, spices, dark fruity nose, floral notes. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruity, anise, blueberries, juicy, good length. 87-89

torsdag 11. april 2019

2018 Primeur TN's, Bordeaux, Cadillac and more



Some of these lesser known appelations or lower ranking classifications made some lovely wines in 2018. Finally it was warm enough for the often clay or limestone vineyards that can sometimes produce too lean or herbal wines. On the other side, some of these also have warm vineyards, soils and/ or terroir. If you want bang for the buck, there are some lovely stuff and most will retail below €20,- per bottle, some even below €10,- The best ones from below will last up to twenty years, if you want them to, but also drink very well at five years of age. And there is some lovely whites here as well.


Bordeaux/ Bordeaux Superieur/ Entre-deux-Mers

2018 Bad Boy
Ruby. Dark fruity, anise, blueberries, spices, liquorice nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries, spices, liquorice, good length. Charming Bad Boy! 86-88

2018 Balthus
MAR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, spices, liquorice dark fruits nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits and spices, juicy, long finish. 89-91

2018 Château Bolaire
MAR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, some spices, dark fruity nose, vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lighter red fruity palate, good length. 85-87

2018 Château Bois Noir
MAR 19 Ruby. Anise, spices, blueberries, fruit driven nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries, fresh. 85-87

2018 Domaine des Cambes
MAR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, spices, dark fruits nose, quite intense. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, spices, structured, denser, quite intense and long. 91-93

2018 Château Côte Montpezat
MAR 19 Pale lemon yellow. Some tropical notes, fruity, elegant nose. Fresh acidity, fruity, fresh, bit more playful this vintage. 84-86

2018 Château Croix-Mouton
MAR 19 Ruby. Cassis, blueberries and spices nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries, some spices. 84-86

2018 Girolate blanc
MAR 19 Pale lemon yellow. Fresh fruity white fruits nose. Fresh acidity, fruity, fresh, elegant body, good length. 88-90

2018 Château Haut Bertinerie
MAR 19 Pale lemon yellow. Light fruity and spicy nose and palate, quite refreshing, some tropical notes on the palate. 84-86


2018 Hubert de Boüard Le Chardonnay
Pale lemon yellow. Apples, citrus, floral, light vanilla note nose, elegant. Fresh acidity, fresh, fruity, elegant, lovely freshness, some spices, leaner bodied, good length. 88-90

2018 Hubert de Boüard Le Sauvignon
Pale lemon yellow. Apples, minerals, lemons and slight peachy nose. Fresh acidity, fruity, apples, lemons, elegant texture. 87-89

2018 Hubert de Boüard Rosé
Watery salmon. Very light floral and red fruity nose. Fresh, fruity, lively, lean. 81

2018 Hubert de Boüard Le Cabernet Franc
Ruby. Anise, dark fruity, blueberries and spices nose, violets. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries and spices, juicy, a very fine Cab Franc. 90-92

2018 Hubert de Boüard Le Cabernet Sauvignon 
Ruby. Anise, blueberries, spices, fresh and fruity nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, cassis, dark fruity and structured, lovely tannins behind, long. 89-91

2018 Hubert de Boüard Le Merlot
Ruby. Dark fruity, plums and anise, rich and dense nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries, spices, rich and dark fruity, spicy, long. 89-91

2018 Loudenne Le Chateau
MAR 19 Pale lemon yellow. Light fruity nose and palate, very light. 79-81

2018 Clos des Lunes Lune d'Argent
MAR 19 Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, minerals, fresh nose, elegant. Fresh acidity, fresh, fruity, elegant texture, lovely balance, long. 89-91

2018 Clos des Lunes Lune d'Or
MAR 19 Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, pears and grapefruits nose. Fresh acidity, fresh, fruity, apples, some lemons and spices, juicy, long. 90-92

2018 Château Laurence blanc
Pale lemon yellow. Light fruity, citrusy and peach nose. Fresh acidity, fresh, fruity, lighter bodied. 83-85

2018 Château Marjosse
MAR 19 Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, some spices nose. Freshish acidity, fruity, rounded, some bitterness. 84-86

2018 Château Magrez Fombrauge blanc
MAR 19 Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, spices, some grapefruits nose. Freshish acidity, fruity, rounded, apples and grapefruits, elegant if leaner. 83-85

2018 Château Monbousquet blanc
APR 19 Pale lemon yellow. Citrus, fruity, some spices nose. Fresh acidity, grapefruits, spices, fruity, touch bitter. Good length. 86-88

2018 Château Mont-Pérat
MAR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, some spices nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, dark berries, some vanilla, good length. 86-88

2018 Château Mont-Pérat blanc
MAR 19 Pale lemon yellow. Apples, minerals, fresh nose. Freshish acidity, fruity, rounded, lighter. 85-87

2018 Château Patris Querre
MAR 19 Pale lemon yellow. Some citrus, vanilla, spicy notes nose. Fresh acidity, fruity, some lemons and spices nose, good length. 84-86

2018 Château Penin
MAR 19 Ruby. Dark fruity nose. Blueberries and spices. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries, so e spices, liquorice, leane rfinish. 86-88

2018 Château Penin blanc
MAR 19 Pale lemon yellow. Some grapefruits and lemons nose. Freshish acidity, light bodied. 81-83

2018 Château Penin Bordeaux Clairet
MAR 19 Garnet. Red fruity, some violets nose. Fresh acidity, ripe and fruity, some tannins, elegant texture. 83

2018 Château Peyfaures
MAR 19 Ruby. Rich, jammy and alcohol nose. Freshish acidity, ripe tannins, jammy, anise, smooth, boring. 84-86

2018 Château Peyfaures Dame de Coeur
MAR 19 Ruby. Dark fruits, jammy, some tea notes nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, liquorice, good length. 86-88

2018 Château de Pressac Rosé
MAR 19 Watery salmon. Light fruity nose, fresh. Same for palate. 81

2018 Château Puynard The Steps
MAR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, some floral notes nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, some bitterness, spices, good length. 84-86

2018 Reignac
MAR 19 Ruby. Dark fruits, anise, vanilla and spices, liquorice nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries and spices, juicy, spicy finish, long. 89-91

2018 Reignac Blanc
MAR 19 Pale lemon yellow. Fruity, apples, some grapefruits nose. Freshish acidty, fruity, rounded, elegant texture. 84-86

2018 Château de la Rivière blanc
MAR 19 Pale lemon yellow. Light fruity, minerals, fresh and fairly playful. 83-85

2018 Château Sainte-Barbe
MAR 19 Ruby. Rich, fruity, anise, some spices, liquorice nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits and spices, some liquorice, good length. 87-89

2018 Château Sainte-Marie
MAR 19 Ruby. Anise, blueberries, some spices and herbs nose. Freshish acidity, ripe tannins, some herbs and red fruits. Leaner. 84-86

2018 Château Sainte-Marie blanc
MAR 19 Pale lemon yellow. Light fruity nose and palate, some bitterness. 81-83

2018 Château Grand Village
MAR 19 78 M 22 Bouchet. Ruby. Blueberries, anise, some spices, scented nose. Floral, some violets. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blueberries, fruity, blueberries, some spices, elegant texture, long. Best yet of this. Even with some warmth in the finish. 90-92

2018 Domaine Virginie
APR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, dark fruity, spices, liquorice nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries and spices, liquorice, good length. 85-87

2018 Les Perrières de Lafleur (Fronsac)
51 Bouchet 49 CF. the former Acte. Ruby. Scented, blueberries, anise, fresh, detailed, floral nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries, some spices, detailed, long. Minerals. 91-93

2018 Les Blanc du Grand Village
75 SB 25 S Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, some grapefruits, some vanilla notes nose. Fresh acidity, fruity, grapefruits, apples, lemons, fairly creamy, good length. 89-91

2018 Les Champs Libres
100SB Pale lemon yellow. Apples, minerals, detailed, intense, fruity, grapefruits, touch of mango nose. Fresh acidity, minerals, playful, detailed, candied lemons, nuanced, layered, long. Some creaminess to it as well. 92-94


Côte de Blaye

2018 Château Haut Bertinerie
MAR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, some spices, liquorice nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, roudned palate, easy going, good length. 84-86

2018 If des Jonqueyres
Ruby. Blueberries, anise, dark fruity, anise, spices nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries, lighter palate, dark fruity. Some herbs. 83-85

2018 Château Les Jonqueyres a l'Infer
Ruby. Blackberries, dark fruity, some spices nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries, spices, liquorice, good length. 85-87


Côte de Bourg

2018 Château Fougas 
MAR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, some spices, liquorice nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, dark fruity, some vanilla, good length. 86-88

2018 Roc de Cambes
MAR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, some spices, liquorice, ripe and fruity nose, rich. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, structured, firm, intense, dark berries, spices, long. 92-94


Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux

2018 Château Carignan
MAR 19 Ruby. Blueberries and spices nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruity palate, some structure to it. 85-87

2018 Château Carignan Prima
MAR 19 Ruby. Dark fruits, anise and spices nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, spices, bit high alcohol, or at least it shows, good length. 86-88

2018 Château Clos Chaumont
Ruby. Anise, herbs, leaner  nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner body, herbal, light. Bit bitter finish. 82-84

2018 Château Clos Chaumont blanc
Lemon yellow. Orange blossoms, ripe oranges and lemons nose, lighter. Freshish acidity, fruity, rounded, lighter, orange blossoms finish. 83-85

2018 Château de Haut Coulon
MAR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, anise, some spices and liquorice nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries and spices, liquorice, good length. 85-87

2018 Château Lafitte
MAR 19 Ruby. Ripe dark fruits, anise, blackberries jam nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits and anise, leaner finish. 85-87

2018 Château Lagarosse
MAR 19 Blueberries, anise, some spices nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruity, anise, spices, good length. 85-87

2018 Château des Mille Anges
Ruby. Anise, herbs, dark fruity nose, spices. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries and spices, elegant, charming. 86-88

2018 Château des Mille Anges blanc
Pale lemon yellow. Light fresh fruity nose, some tropical fruits. Fresh acidity, fresh, fruity, lively, elegant. 84-86

2018 Château Reaut
MAR 19 Ruby. Blueberries, ripe, fruity nose. Fresh acidity, ripe dark fruits and gerbs palate. Bit short. 84-86

2018 Château Reaut blanc
MAR 19 Pale lemon yellow. Fruity, apples, grapefruits nose. Freshish acidity, fruity, rounded, fresh. 83-85

2018 Château Reynon
MAR 19 20PV 70M 10 CS Ruby. Blueberries, anise, spices, scented nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blueberries, anise, some spices, elegant texture, slight warmth in the finish. 86-88

2018 Château Reynon blanc
MAR 19 100SB Pale lemon yellow. Apples, pears, light grapefruits note nose. Fresh acidity, fresh, lemons, elegant, playful, good length. 86-88

2018 Château Suau
MAR 19 Ruby. Anise, blueberries, spices, ripe fruity nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries, spices, good length. 85-87


Francs Côtes de Bordeaux

2018 Château de Francs Les Cerisiers
Ruby. Blueberries, anise, dark berries and spices nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, blueberries and spices, dark berries, juicy, good length. 88-90

2018 Château de Francs L'Infini
Ruby. Dark fruity, anise, spices, blueberries nose. Scented, floral high notes. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, dark fruity, spices, anise, liquorice, long. 89-91


Loupiac

2018 Château Les Roques
MAR 19 Golden. Some dried fruits and tropical notes nose. Fresh acidity, fruity, rounded, elegant texture, good length. 86-88


Sainte-Croix-du-Mont

2018 Château du Pavillon
MAR 19 Pale golden. Light apricots and pineapples nose. Fresh acidity, fresh, fruity, rounded if light. 84-86




tirsdag 9. april 2019

2018 Bordeaux


The new, very beautiful wine shop and reception at Château d'Yquem

Primeur week is over and this year’s marathon for wine critics is over, even if Anteprime de Toscana isn’t much behind on that front. 900! Wines tasted this year by me, by far the most I have ever done, but I also spent a little longer in the region. A Chinese TV crew named me the tasting machine after a colleague of mine travelling with was asked where I was. Oh, Christer still tastes, he is like a tasting machine he answered, and there you have it. Maybe you have gotten used to Yves Beck and “Beckustator”, now “The tasting machine” might join the force. Who knows?

 The famous gate of Léoville Las Cases

2018, a brilliant vintage, but not for everybody. That means both estates and customers. Some wines are very dense, some are quite untypical for their usual profile, and some have quite high alcohol levels, so you might need to consider those factors when buying. If you like rich, dense and big Bordeaux, 2018 is a vintage for you, if you like freshness, liveliness and more classic expression, there is still lots of 2016 out there for you. Some remarkable wines were made in 2018, some will probably be legendary. Both because of high quality but also because of difference in style. Calon Ségur is one of the densest, deepest and most alcoholic wine ever produced at the estate. If it is a turning point towards a new style of the house or just one vintage going in a different direction, we don’t know yet. But it is certainly different. It is a great wine, and it will be up to you to determine in the future if you find it a great Calon Ségur. I’m on the fence, I think it is too much personally. But 2003’s surprice me every time I taste them, so even if 2018’s for the most part seems to have higher alcohol, even quite a bit higher, they might show more classical in the future. 

 The lovely Saint-Emilion

The acidity isn’t really high this year, yet most wines seems to have enough lift not to feel flabby. Tannin levels are high yet fine grained and like snowflakes more or less across the region. So they don’t feel quite as high as they actually are. 2010 and 2011 had similar levels even if quite some estates have even higher this vintage and therefore the highest IPT as they say, ever. I will go further in detail for each commune as I publish notes from them, but Pomerol, Saint-Estephe, Pauillac and Fronsac has very few wines that are not stand outs in their own right from the producers. Many have made their best, or one of their best ever, across all price levels and classifications. Saint-Emilion is much more widespread, but so is the soil and microclimats. Clay and/or limestone is key to have kept enough water for the drought from late June and more or less throughout the season. Many have low crops due to unheard of mildew problems. Yet others sprayed freely and still maintained 40hl/ha which means they sprayed quite a bit. Biodynamic estates like Palmer, Durfort Vivens, Pontet-Canet and others have lost up to 80% of the crop due to mildew, but also pour fruit set due to the wet and rainy spring. Most have done better than that. I didn’t taste Durfort-Vivens, La Ferrière and Haut-Bages Liberal due to low production and the wines were not at the tastings where I normally taste them. If that was the case with Troplong-Mondot and Les Carmes Haut-Brion as well, I don’t know. There just isn’t enough time to visit everyone and everybody at the one place they might show their wine, or not. Too many have already left the big tastings. Some critics are now spending three to four weeks in Bordeaux to taste through everything. I just don’t have that time on my hand. Or the budget to keep a rental car for that long. Yet I managed to taste 900 wines plus another few hundred wines from older vintages. 

 Lovely Wisteria acros Cirons, the small river giving us the fog that creates Sauternes

The beauty of 2018 is that some inexpensive wines like those of Fronsac, Lalande de Pomerol, plain Bordeaux appellation and the Cotes, Cadillac for example as well as Cru Bourgeois have made superb wines within their level and classification. Graves as well. Rarely have I enjoyed tasting wines costing sometimes less than €10,- per bottle en primeur more. So it is a vintage where you can buy lots of inexpensive wines to enjoy over the next five to twenty years depending on estate, region and how you like them. There will be lots of great value!
Whites are not as bad as some critics state (at least while still in Bordeaux, as I haven’t seen much published yet). The freshness is quite well balanced with the fruit and concentration of each wine even if the wines are not as playful nor as complex or long as they can be. Some lovely wines for medium term drinking was made for sure. I expected them to be quite flabby. And I didn’t really find that many. If you like them crisp, it isn’t the white or sweet vintage for you, but I wouldn’t avoid them totally. But read comments carefully to find the freshest ones. PH levels were generally low enough for freshness across all ranges (also red) but some exceptions is out there. 


Relaxed tasting at Château Haut-Bailly


The fine-tuned winemaking and details in Bordeaux wines these days are unparalleled. There has never been anything like this vintage, both in terms of style but also due to how precise the wines are. There is a shift after 2013 and it is increasing every year. Producers know their plot better and better, replanting with right varieties to the soil, and even right clones of the variety to the soil, the right rootstocks, precise vats that fits the plot of that one terroir that is in this one parcel, to ferment it by itself and so forth, gives incredibly precise wines. Harvests wher half a row is picked, and then wait a day or four for the rest of the row to reach perfection according to the team of each estate is making these wines incredible to taste. The worry is if it changes the style of the wines we all adore with enough years in the cellar. We don’t know yet, but seeing how 2000’s, 2003’s, 2005, 2009’s and so forth seems to be heading, I worry less about it now than I used to. 2009 is already ten years even if I still think of it as a baby. The last ten years with magic vintages like 2009, 2010, 2015, 2016 and now 2018 is unheard of, and still there is the superb yet forgotten 2011 (it is another 2001, and I have said it for years. Finally I heard a Bordeaux producer saying the same, and it was none other than Hubert de Boüard de Laforest himself). I have preached that 2011 is a steal for years. 2012, blander but more charming is more expensive. 2012 won’t be more charming for much longer, the 2011’s are just starting to unfold their buds. 

2018, a brilliant vintage, but not for everybody. More will be published soon!