2022 have some absolute stars, and I have one word that you need to remember!
I am sitting here in Bordeaux, my last evening after primeur. I just finished the tastings, and I have opened a somewhat older bottle, been sipping to it, enjoying it, and there is a word that has been on my mind a lot the last week. This wine, the wine that I am sipping, enjoying, does not even carry this word on the label. Even if it is from prime location’s within the region, that is this word. The word on my mind. For an entire week. I think of this word when I taste first growths. The wine I am sipping to is made by famous people. From a grand name. They don’t see any value in showing the word I am thinking of on the label. No, they actually, appellation wise, downgrade their wine.
They find that the word Bordeaux on a label means more than my word.
My favorite word of Bordeaux primeurs 2022.
My title is provoking, and it is meant to be. Forgotten today, the romans were here. So were Charlemagne. In 849 the viking Hastings pillaged the place. It was enjoyed at the court of Versailles itself, but now, it has no meaning. Unless you are a proper wine lover, then you know the tremendous value and pleasure of my 2022 word. How can that have happened to some of the best terroirs of Bordeaux? That year after year turns out better and better wines. To critical acclaim. High scores, rock bottom prices. But the consumers have yet to react. Well, 2022 is showing two wines on a level never seen, at least in modern times, from my word before. Oh yes, the old king is starting to wake up. And you should know about it. Don’t tell me you haven’t had the chance. Bargains, and they have never been better.
I will give up the word shortly. But before that, almost every wine I have tasted from my word of the 2022 vintage has been the best wine I have ever tasted from this region. And from this or that estate. They are so good. And two of them are entering a new level. Eric Boissenot, the super star consultant that consults more or less all the greatest estates in Bordeaux, started consulting one of my stars last year for the 2021 vintage. This estate found pixels in its wines we earlier only guessed might be there. In 2022 they found an entire movie. I had to taste the wine five times during primeurs, because not only did I have to be sure, as I have never rated any wine from the region as high as I did before, but I finally thought to myself. Wow, I have been right all along. The potential is actually starting to show. There is a king sleeping here. There really is. And he is awakening. Slowly, but surely.
Then, almost a week later, visiting one of the greatest names in Bordeaux, I tasted another 2022, from these limestone vineyards, that was even greater. That is the one I am now enjoying an older sibling of, tonight. The one that does not even carry the king’s name on it’s label. As no one remembers the king. Anymore. That must change. These wines are so underpriced it is shameful. Even the one only priding itself being from Bordeaux is undervalued.
So, I am drinking the secretively called Acte 8. That means 2016. Made by and owned by the iconic and legendary Château Lafleur in Pomerol. The wine that just blew my mind was its younger brother Les Perrieres 2022, now it has a name. The vineyard is just above Château La Riviere. And yes, my word for the 2022 vintage is Fronsac. This is the greatest wine made on this terroir for probably 150 to 200 years. Maybe all the way back to the Versailles days. But trust me, you will hear more about Fronsac. This is the first time I score a wine from Fronsac potentially 95 points, and even if it does not want to carry the name of this faded but proud region, this is were it is from. It ows everything to the marvelous limestone soils of Fronsac.
The other masterpiece is Château Dalem. I scored it 94 points and had to go back several times to try it. I have been waiting for this to happen. I have enjoyed splendid bottles of Dalem that shows way more complexity than they do when young. And I mean, properly old, back to the 1960's, and trust me, the modern vintages are far more precise and refined.
I have felt that this is going to happen. It has to. At some point it just has to. The soil is too good. The soil, the terroir, has been waiting for enough cash flow. For the right time. For the right knowledge and experience. Maybe for the right vintages. When someone like Eric Boissenot pays attention, you should to.
2022 Château Fontenil of Dany and Michel Rolland is superb, so is Château de la Dauphine. And Château la Riviere. All three, probably the best they ever made. And many more. 2022 is the year the old king awakens! Trust me on this.
My word for 2022 Bordeaux is Fronsac!
